Tuesday 29 March 2011

The Run Turks and Caicos


Run to the The Turks and Caicos Islands
     We left Long Island for the Open Atlantic with numerous possibilities before us depending on the wind and waves.  We could tack this way and that against a the small swells but the wind was not cooperating, too much or not enough again.  I decided that with our fuel tank full and a 3 day window of lite wind that we may as well  point upwind right at the Turks and Caicos Islands and go for 2 nights straight.  The engine droned on hour after hour without skipping a beat.  Steve took the 9 to 1am shift and I took the 1 to 5 am shift.  I had a good book going so the time moved along faster than I thought it would.  The boat steers itself most of the time so being on watch for me means eating or drinking something once in awhile and reading.  After a page or two, get up, look around for ships, check the gauges and the course on the chart plotter and pick up the book again.  Steve is much better at keeping a constant lookout.  He also is the one to spot interesting stuff.  We were cruising along between Rum Cay and Samana Cay when he shouted to look, a 30 ft. Whale cruised right by the boat.  I never would have seen it.  We identified it as either a small Right Whale or a Pilot Whale.
     I had been trolling two lines during the datime.  On the second day my rod with the solid body swimming lure screamed as line was pealing off.  Behind the boat a larged Mahi Mahi was jumping completely out of the water.  I was so damn excited.  I worked it in the to boat slowly.  Every time he pulled hard or took more line I was laughing my head off it was so much fun.  When I got him along side the boat Steve held the rod for me and I tried to pull him into the boat with a gaff hook.  I stuck him pretty good with the hook and tried to haul himover the lifelines.  He was halfway in when he started a good thrashing about.  His tail or something hit my head knocking one of my sunglass lens out and he went back in the water.  I saw the lens floating away but we still had the fish on the line.  The second try worked better and he flopped about a bit on deck but we had him.  He measured 55 inches, the largest fish I've ever caught.  I carved away at him for about an hour ending up with 2 full gallon ziplocks full of thick steaks.  Steve doesn't care for fish so I'm devouring it all 2 meals a day.  Favorite preparation so far is searing it in the wok with salt pepper, and curry powder, then deglazing the pan with pineapple juice.  Yum, can't wait for dinner.
     We passed close to Mayaguana Cay as the sun set on the second night.  I was exhausted and smelly from the fish battle so I took a saltwater shower on deck and put on my jammies.  The stars came out in force with a late moon rise, a precurser to intense star gazing.  Steve, with star knowledge, pointed out the Souther Cross to me low on the horizon.  I couldn't believe it, there it is!  I immediately selected "Southern Cross" on the stereo and listened to all three versions I had while staring at the sky.  "When you see the Southern Cross for the first time, now you understandwhy you came this way....."  That was really cool!
    We pulled into a small bay near Provo, East Caicos and checked into the country.  It is a good place to rest for a day but not much commercial activity on that side of the island.  We found a modern wine shop with internet and beer for $2.50 which gave me a chance to check in with Sheril on Skype, the best use of the internet in cruising history.
     This anchorage was a bit rolly.  Waves make it  around a point and rock the boats side to side.  Its not good but you can can used to it and sleep if you are tired.  I had a dream that I was at big party and for some reason I could not keep myself on the ground.  I kept flying off the floor for no reason, as the boat rocked me up and down in my sleep.  We must have gotten a nice wave through the anchorage as in my dream I slammed my head into the ceiling and broke the crown moulding of the party hosts.  Everyone is looking at me like I'm being rude and I'm trying to explain that I can't explain it.
     Steve checked in with home on Skype and was told he has a job waiting for him in China.  He immediately booked a flight and we said goodbye the next morning.  Steve was a great crewman, a great helmsman, and always ready for adventure.  I think I am ready to handle the boat alone, with an adjustment of focus and adding a layer of safety.
  

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